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O. M- 000KB. Trimmlng No. 224,15l.

Patented Feb. 3, I880.

WITNESSES 9 ATTORNEYS.

NVFETERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON D c.

, a, and a gathering-cord, b, which is loosely UNITED STATES PATENT" OFFICE.

CHARLES M. OOOKE, on NEW YORK, N. Y.

TRIMMING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 224,151, dated February 3, 1880.

Application filed January 21, 1879. l i i To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CHARLES M. GOOKE, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Material for Ruffled Trimmings, of which the following is a specification.

My improved article .of dress-trimming is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, to which reference is made in the following description.

Referring to Figure 1, A indicates a Web or piece of narrowtrimming of muslin, cotton,

cambric, or lawn, 860., which has aselvage-edge,

woven into the fabric in the process of manufacture. The cord b runs parallel to theedge a and at the distance from it of an ordinary ruflled dress-trimming. The cord is also located at a distance from the other or selvage edge of the fabric sufficient to leave or form the heading h.

To attach the material to a garment the same is first ruffled or gathered by drawing the cord b. The trimming 0 thus formed is then laid face down on the garment D, Fig. 2, and basted thereto by coarse stitches running along the heading h on the line g g.

The permanent attachment is then made by sewing with a machine along the line (I d onv the other side of the gathering-cord b, but contiguous to it. The'ruffling U is then turned also with less liability .to variation from a straight course, and because the work can be better guided to the machine, and the presserfoot has a broad surface upon which to rest and slide.

Ohiefly for sake of economy of manufacture, I may,in some cases, weave the material double, as shown in Fig. 4-tha3t is to say, the web A may be woven with two parallel selvage-edges,

a a, and with twodrawing cords, b b, and borders h h, instead of one. web A along the median line f, between the drawing-cords b, two pieces of trimming will be formed, each of which will be like that shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3. If the web A remains uncut, and the'gathering-cords b be located a little farther apart than shown in Fig. 4, a double ruffle, B, will be formed having a double heading, h, which is available in the operations of basting and sewing in substantially thesame manner as the single heading h of the single ruffle A, Fig. 1.

0, Fig. 5, indicates a piece of Hamburg edging applied so as to cover the plain double heading h. V

In Fig. 6 I show another modification, which is similar to that represented in Figs. 4 and 5, except that the gathering-cords b b are located nearer the selvage-edges act the web A, so that when drawn up they will form a puffing, as shown at 0. The heading h subserves the same purpose in this case as in the forms of .trimming previously described.

- I am aware ruffling has heretofore been made with a drawing-cord woven close along one selvage-edge, and that two or more drawing-cords have been inserted into the body of a fabric to enable it to be'gathered into folds of certain dift'erent'determinate widths; but to such my invention does not pertain.

What I claim is.- As a new article of manufacture, the rufflin or trimming material described, consisting, essentially, of the web having a selvage edge or edges and a gathering cord or cords, the lat ter being woven in and incorporated loosely,

and running lengthwise with the fabric and parallel to its selvage-edge, a sufficient distance from it to form a heading, whereby the material is adapted for attachment'to a garment, substantially in the manner and for the purpose set'forth.

GHARLES .M. OOOKE.

- Witnesses ISABEL S. CooKn, GEO. D. WALKER.

By then dividing the 

